Mt. Rainier

Generally, I like to think that I recognize a good thing when I see it. 

In this case, a good thing took form in the shape of an invitation to partake in a day hike with a running buddy of mine at Rainier National Park.

Since moving to Bainbridge Island, I’ve been in amazement of Mt. Rainier, the namesake of Rainier National Park.  I’ve always heard, and can now attest, to the natural beauty of this wonderful treasure, even if I’ve only seen a fraction of its 368 square miles. 

Most importantly, I’ve now witnessed the mountain up close.  Surely the broader park is beautiful as it is expansive, but the mountain is the main attraction.  Similar to a good warm-up band, the park is indeed good entertainment and does put on a good show, but headliners sell tickets and fill the seats, not warm-ups bands.  Mt. Rainier lives up to such billing as the headlining act.

For almost two years I’ve been catching various views of the mountain from the broader Seattle area.  In clear skies, Mt. Rainier seems to float effortlessly upon the horizon, providing awe-inspiring views in the process.  I hate to sound dramatic, but really, it is quite amazing.

And so it is, having viewed it from afar, I finally made my initial visit to Mt. Rainier on Sunday.  What a good trip it was.

I’m not sure what I did to deserve it, but Mother Nature could not have crafted better weather conditions.  I’ve hypothesized that since my visit fell on Sunday - a day of rest for some – perhaps Mother Nature called for a truce amongst the powerful and furious conditions that often wreak havoc in the area.  Can it be that even the weather gods need time for rest?

 weather can eschew many, this sign warms of related risk

No matter, the conditions were a gift.   Such weather is not to be questioned or understood – simply enjoyed.  And so I did.

One day, perhaps next summer, I hope to visit the summit of Mt. Rainier.  But as I possess virtually no technical climbing experience, I must start somewhere.  It is within this context that I began my journey to the summit with a more immediate, intermediate goal to reach Camp Muir, a climb beginning in an area appropriately known as Paradise (elevation 5,400ft).

At 10,100ft, Camp Muir is approximately the halfway point to the summit, which tops at 14,400ft.   These days, Camp Muir typically serves as the primary base camp locale for those with intentions to push onward towards the summit. 

Resting upon an expansive glacier, Camp Muir serves as an ideal springboard for those with aspirations to reach the top.  Often, guided groups will spend 1-2 days at Camp Muir practicing alpine technical safety procedures.  Of course, one hopes to never actually use such training under duress situations, but the soft glacial snows provides an ideal training environment. 

My guide for the day, Jeff Philips, has been to Rainier countless times, including multiple successful summits.  While our day did not include any bid to reach the summit, we did set our sights squarely on reaching Camp Muir before lunch.

The hike started out steep almost immediately, and we climbed through the most beautiful alpine meadows I’ve even seen.  Before long, we ascended through the tree line and onto the glaciers. 

alpine meadows in full bloom

As this was my first time hiking on glaciers, I was a bit bemused.  On the one hand, I was giddy with excitement, but also fearful of the unknown.  Mainly, I didn’t know what it was I didn’t know; I wasn’t sure how I felt about this uncertainty.

As the trail cleared past the tree line and we made our way onto the glacier, Jeff offered some simple, but very effective techniques to ensure I had proper footing on the sometimes-clumsy snow/slush mixture.  As with any good teacher, his instruction was clear and concise.  Quickly, with my confidence back, I was again on my way.

Jeff, making progress to Camp Muir

Pausing for photos

The glacial snowfield is as peaceful as it is beautiful.  During my ascent, my body found passive tranquility within the alpine environment, but my mind did not.

I simply wanted to enjoy the gift nature had placed upon me and let my mind wander; thoughts and ideas free to come and go at their leisure.  Much as I tried to give my mind freedom and permission to drift, to not dwell upon any single thought, I simply couldn’t move past an inevitable question – how is all this beauty possible?

Mentally, I was trying to reconcile the overwhelming splendor all around me, but uninvited questions of ‘why’ and ‘how’ dominated my thoughts.  Try as I might, I was not able to avoid a battle with myself over creationism versus evolution.  My thoughts seemed to stall; as i awkwardly trapped within a glacial crevasse, too deep for quick or easy escape.  But on this day, I did not want to be burdened with such heavy dispute; not here, not today.

For right or wrong, I’m a pragmatist, which seems to situate me firmly in the evolution camp.  But, if ever there is a time to take pause and consider the influence of a higher being and the notion creationism, standing in the midst of an alpine mountainside might be the ideal time and place for such reflection. 

The experience is exhilarating and serene all at once.  And for just a moment, I considered re-examining my stance … but I did not.

In the end, I brokered a truce with myself; my time on the glacier being neither the time nor the place to resolve this inner debate. 

Instead, while Mother Nature laid down her weapons to take a nap, I simply chose to enjoy the scenery and the hike. 

I had a great day.

Lunch at Camp Muir

Tents at Camp Muir

Some prefer to sleep indoors

Composting bathrooms at Camp Muir